OKLAHOMA CITY (Free Press) — Is there a term for the phenomenon when you bite into something so satisfying in texture and flavor that it borderline overrides your other senses? Your vision drifts out of focus, your eyelids droop involuntarily, sounds seem slightly muffled, that sort of thing.
Flavor fugue? Delectablissed out? Delicioussociating? Maybe it’s not a universal thing, but it’s definitely an indicator that you’ve gotten your hands on something special, and I felt it very strongly at Trompudo’s Tacos.
Once upon a time, this building at SW 59th and May housed Señor Barrigon, a restaurant that I had vaguely meant to try but never did.
Trompudo’s is still pretty new: The drive-through window opened in August, the dining room opened about a month ago and they’re close, owner Guadalupe Garcia told me, to getting the bar up and running. It might be nice to have a round of cocktails as an extra reason to linger – the interior is done up in warm colors and wooden accents, with hanging glass lights and some decorative roosters and farming implements scattered around for décor – but you shouldn’t need any additional impetus to visit beyond the main menu.
I should detour slightly to clarify that Trompudo’s is far from a one-trick pony. Protein options include beef asada and pork carnitas, and I had tacos with a surprisingly rich and smoky chorizo and, at Garcia’s recommendation, suadero (a tender cut of beef reminiscent of brisket).
You could get nachos, a torta, mulitas or burritos with any of these possibilities and feel perfectly satisfied.
But the restaurant’s magnum opus is the al pastor carved off the trompo – the inverted cone of meat that appears in the dreams of discerning carnivores. That savory pork is presented with diced pineapples for a splash of citrus, and when it’s mixed with sour cream, avocado, onions and melted cheese inside a buttered, grilled tortilla … well, getting acquainted with the quesadilla is what led to the state of pleasure I was asking about above. It’s a slightly messy eating experience, but using up a few extra napkins is a vanishingly small inconvenience for such an exquisitely flavored creation, beautifully balanced in every taste detail.
Speaking of detail, I’m also impressed that Trompudo’s makes six different kinds of salsa – one formulated to accompany and set off each protein as well as a general-purpose mild. The piña that comes with the al pastor has a bright heat that further enhances the flavor without overpowering it; I complimented him on the spicy balancing act and Garcia expressed a bit of disdain for salsas that weaponize heat at the expense of flavor. This stuff might clear your sinuses, but it still tastes great.
Trompudo’s is one of those places that has a gravity of its own. It exerts a pull on the consciousness and appetite. Speaking for myself, anyway; a couple of hours after I left, I realized I was already thinking about whether there was any errand I could run nearby in the next few days to use as an excuse for another visit. If you live or work on the southwest side, you may find yourself here a lot – and I envy you for it.
6015 S May, OKC
Last Updated October 30, 2021, 2:40 PM by Brett Dickerson – Editor