Food, not drinks, is the true focus at Soda Pops in OKC

OKLAHOMA CITY — If it’s being judged on decor alone, then South OKC’s Soda Pops #1 nailed the assignment. Signs for a plethora of obscure cola brands that have since gone flat cover every wall alongside classic ads for enduring favorites. And while diners certainly can get root beer, orange, and grape sodas in the bottle, it wouldn’t be right to say the business is particularly soda-centric.

Think of the name and decorations as being more evocative of a time or a feeling and Soda Pops makes much more sense. This is a classic diner through and through, as the menu makes clear.

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Entry to Soda Pops #1 on OKC’s Southside. (GREG.ELWELL/Okla City Free Press)

A whopping eight burgers call the menu home, as well as a plethora of sandwiches that are more interested in sating your hunger than breaking new ground. That’s not a complaint, by the way. As much fun as it is when a restaurant conjures some unfathomable new flavor combination, it’s also nice to sit down for lunch and know exactly what you’re getting.

It’s not particularly complex, but for those who get antsy when they don’t know exactly how things work, here’s the rundown: diners at Soda Pops order at the counter, then grab a booth, where the server will drop off your food and drinks. You’ll also pay the server at the table, rather than at the register up front.

If you’re getting an appetizer, the Twisted Tator is my recommendation. 

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Soda Pops Twisted Tator. (GREG.ELWELL/Okla City Free Press)

Basically, it’s a thin-cut spiralized potato fried in oil and dusted with seasoning, creating something akin to a necklace of potato chips. It’s not uniformly crispy, so you’ll get some bits that are crunchy and others with a slightly softer pliability. Not only is it tasty, but the form factor makes it more fun for kids and adults with the brains of kids, like me.

The salad list is short but mighty. 

Plenty of folks online recommend the country chicken salad, which includes big chunks of boneless fried chicken, though a charbroiled version is also available. While the Indian taco certainly has some salad-like ingredients, it’s a little odd to see it represented here instead of under dinners, but that’s likely because dinners come with two sides and the Indian taco does not.

As one might guess from a diner, the chef salad is a great example of doing the classics right. It’s a big bowl piled high with lettuce covered in diced ham, sliced hard-boiled egg, lots of veggies, and a heaping handful of shredded cheese. The only thing it’s missing, according to my wife, are black olives, but your mileage may vary. Anyone looking for something cool and fresh, but still filling, will appreciate the straightforward charms of this classic dish.

The burgers are solid and affordable, especially as the prices at fast food shops continue to rise. 

The old-fashioned burger is another example of giving the people what they want—a third-pound burger with mustard, onion, pickle, and tomato on a bun. I opted to add cheese, but it’s not required.

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Soda Pops old fashioned burger with cheese. (GREG.ELWELL/Okla City Free Press)

Other options include the bacon burger, which adds (you guessed it) bacon and swaps out the mustard for mayo.

The wildest of the bunch is Soda Pops Favorite Burger, which loses all the veggies and instead slathers on chili, cheese, and a sweet pickle relish.

The dinners are good, but the lineup is so classic it’s almost a cliche. Chicken-fried steak, chicken-fried chicken, chicken-fried pork chop, catfish, etc. 

The difference maker is the care taken with these entrees because the chicken-fried steak (in the feature photo) isn’t just fork-tender—it’s spoon-tender. I’m not even sure how they got it onto the plate without it falling apart, that’s how easy to cut and chew it is. I also appreciate that they serve the chicken-fried steak on top of the gravy, instead of the other way around. This preserves more of that lovely crunchy crust while still giving diners a taste of the iconic cream gravy flavor.

Nothing is over-seasoned, but it might be a little under-seasoned for younger taste buds. Feel free to shake on the salt and pepper until it’s to your liking. The clientele seems to skew a bit older, which might explain why there’s a bit less salt on the dishes coming out of the kitchen.

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Soda Pops fried pork chop sandwich. (GREG.ELWELL/Okla City Free Press)

The main reason Soda Pops caught my attention was the pork chop sandwich. 

While it’s not the pork tenderloin sandwich I was craving, it’s awfully close. The pork chop is a bit thicker than a pounded-out piece of pork tenderloin, but the flavor of the meat and the batter are still delectable and the texture is easy to chew without being mushy or overly soft. You can also get the meat charbroiled if you’re avoiding deliciously deep-fried foods.

The crew at Soda Pops isn’t breaking a lot of new ground, but why should they? Diner food is a delight. It’s well-loved for a reason. This is very much a don’t-fix-what-isn’t-broken kind of menu because everything served is done the old-school way: simply, direct, and delicious.

  • Soda Pops #1
  • 1020 Southwest 119th Street in Oklahoma City
  • (405) 692-7677
  • Monday-Saturday 11 a.m.-9 p.m.

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Long-time food enjoyer Greg Elwell writes about food, restaurants, and trends. He has his own blog "I Ate Oklahoma" and has written for The Oklahoman, The Oklahoma Gazette, and others.