OKLAHOMA CITY — The menu at Savory Bites Persian Mediterranean Grill has shrunk precipitously since the first time I tried them in their old location off of i-235. And while I wish I could have some of those lesser-known Persian delicacies again, I can respect that in these days of takeout and delivery, a business has to adapt to survive.
At its new location on the border between Moore and South OKC, Savory Bites focuses on the big sellers and does a damn good job at them.
Of course, that means gyros are front and center on the menu. As with most places, the gyro meat is available in both a sandwich and platter. But what stands out to me is the degree to which the meat is cooked. Gyro meat is basically a heavily spiced meatloaf on a spit. As it turns, the outside is crisped and shaved down into strips. Some places serve gyro meat so pale and gray you’d think they warmed it in the microwave.
Savory Bites makes sure each strip that comes out of the kitchen has that dark mahogany color that ensures better texture and flavor. I’m sure not all gyro meat is made equal, but trying to parse the quality of an industrial meatloaf is beyond my capabilities. What I can say is that cooking it correctly makes a big difference.
Alongside gyro meat, diners will find falafel, chicken kabobs, and spiced beef kubideh kabobs, all available as sandwiches and the kabobs as platters, as well.
For me, the two most important things about falafel are the taste and the texture. The flavor of Savory Bites’ falafel hits a sweet spot with creamy chickpeas and a bright herb blend. The crust has good crunch but isn’t so stiff that it can’t be smushed in the sandwich. This is important because unsmushed falafel are liable to roll out the back of your sandwich. By crushing them before eating, you get a better blend of textures and the falafel is less likely to come squirting out the other end.
Sometimes I think the hardest thing to cook correctly is a chicken kabob. They seem so simple that plenty of folks are deluded into thinking they are simple. But a good chicken kabob requires a lot of work in advance because marinating the chicken in yogurt and spices is what makes them worth eating. Savory Bites creates big, juicy chunks of chicken breast that retain good moisture without feeling undercooked. If I had my druthers, the chicken might have a bit more char on the outside, but that’s just my personal preference.
The kubideh kabob, however, is in a class of its own. I have been getting these kabobs at Mediterranean restaurants for decades and they rarely live up to the hype. A good kubideh kabob requires a lot of disparate elements to come together in harmony. The meat has to have enough fat to stay juicy, but not so much that it feels stodgy. The seasoning needs to be strong to compete with the beef flavor, but can’t overpower it. And the outside must have good color, which comes from searing the fat as it escapes during cooking. Savory Bites’ version is wonderful. It checks all the right boxes, so much so that even leftovers the next day can survive reheating without much degradation.
The challenge for diners is in the choosing. When you want a gyro, nothing else will do. But it is awfully hard not to choose the mixed kabob feast with both chicken and kubideh kabobs, pita, roasted vegetables, and fluffy saffron rice. Unfortunately, that’s why I always spend way too much, but at least I have leftovers to eat the next day.
One area that could use a little help is the hummus. Both the regular and roasted red pepper hummus seemed under-seasoned, which is a shame because the texture was perfect.
I’m not interested in eating YouTube-inspired foods, but for those who are, Savory Bites does Beast Burgers. If that is your bag, then this is your place. But I just don’t think I can get away from ordering a gyro sandwich packed full of crispy strips of meat and a platter covered in roasted kabob goodness.
For dessert, there’s baklava. I don’t really need to sell you on baklava, do I? It’s crispy, it’s sweet, it’s crunchy, it’s somehow light and heavy all at once.
So if you find yourself in Moore or South OKC, definitely swing through Savory Bites Persian Mediterranean Grill. And try dining in, too. The dining room is simple, clean, and inviting.
- Savory Bites Persian Mediterranean Grill
- savorybitesgrill.com
- 14900 S Western Ave. in OKC
- (405) 838-2192
- Monday 3-7:30 p.m.
- Tuesday-Saturday 10:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m.
- Sunday 11 a.m.-4 p.m.
Long-time food enjoyer Greg Elwell writes about food, restaurants, and trends. He has his own blog "I Ate Oklahoma" and has written for The Oklahoman, The Oklahoma Gazette, and others.
